How to Remove a Hub-Motor Wheel

In plain English

A hub-motor wheel has its motor inside the hub, so it's heavier than a normal wheel and has a cable coming out of the axle. It's held by axle nuts rather than a quick-release, and many have a torque arm or special washers that stop the axle turning in the frame. Getting these back in the right order matters.

Watch how it's done

Video by Park Tool. It may show a regular bike: on an e-bike, switch off and remove the battery first, and unplug the motor cable before taking off a hub-motor wheel.

Work from the top. Steps go from free and easy to shop jobs. Switch the bike off before touching any connector. Tick each step as you go. Your progress is saved on this device.

1. 1Switch off and remove the batteryFree Turn the display off, then take the battery out of its mount (or unplug it). Do this before touching any wires, brakes near the motor, or the rear wheel.
2. 2Take photos firstFree Photograph both sides of the axle: the order of the nuts, washers and torque arm, and how the motor cable is routed.
3. 3Unplug the motor cableEasy Find the motor cable's connector (usually a short way up the frame from the axle). Pull the two halves straight apart by the plugs, not the wires.
4. 4Shift to the smallest gear and free the brakeEasy On the rear wheel, shift to the smallest rear cog so the chain is slack. With rim brakes, release the brake so the tire can pass the pads.
5. 5Undo the axle nuts and remove the wheelModerate Loosen both axle nuts with a wrench that fits snugly. Keep every washer in order. Lift the bike, push the wheel down and forward, and guide the chain off the cog.
6. 6Refit and tighten firmlyModerate Put the wheel back with the axle fully seated in the frame slots, washers and torque arm exactly as in your photos, and the cable pointing the same way. Tighten both nuts evenly and firmly (your manual may give a torque number).
7. 7Reconnect and testModerate Plug the motor cable back in with the arrows lined up, keeping a gentle loop with no sharp bends. Spin the wheel, check the brake, then switch on and test the motor at low assist.
8. 8Have the wheel checkedShop job A shop can true (straighten) the wheel, replace spokes and check the hub bearings.

Parts you might need

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Only buy a part if the free steps didn't fix it. Always match the voltage and connector type to your bike.

• Bike multi-tool or hex key set

  Fits nearly every bolt on a bike. Useful for almost every guide here.

  Link coming soon

• Small torque wrench

  Tightens bolts to the exact number printed on the part, so nothing is too loose or over-tight.

  Link coming soon

• Tire levers

  Plastic levers that pry a tire off the rim without damaging it.

  Link coming soon

• Cable ties

  Keep wires tidy and away from moving parts.

  Link coming soon